How to Replace Your Tail Light (Brake Light Bulb) in a Chevy Venture

This procedure also applies to your turn signal and reverse light bulbs as well.  This is a fairly quick and easy process.  The hardest part is getting the lens assembly apart.

Before you get started you’ll need a couple of items to make the job go smoothly, here they are:

Brake light bulbs (3057 or 3057LL for Long Life)

Torx 30 (T30) male driver

I made a video to show you how to do it, its short and sweet, have a look and hope it helps.  I’ve also included some links to get some light bulbs and the Torx drivers below the video.

Enjoy.

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How to Replace Your CV Axle on a 2000 Chevy Venture Van

This article explains how I replaced the CV (Constant Velocity) axles on my Chevy Venture Van.  I’m sure that this procedure would apply to quite a few other vehicles as their general configurations are fairly similar as well as other years of the Venture.  This took me about 2 hours for the first side after finding all the right tools and about half that for the second side including clean up.  I would budget for roughly 2 hours for one side.  Hopefully this will help you with your project.

Before you get started here is a list of the items that I used:

New CV axle

3/4” Deep Socket (Wheel Lug Nuts)

15mm  Socket

18mm Deep Socket or wrench

13/16” or 21mm Deep Socket or wrench

34 mm Deep Socket for the axle nut (You probably don’t have this sitting in the toolbox)

Large C-Clamp (To squeeze brake calipers)

Floor Jack

Short  and or medium socket extension

Bungee Cord or short section of rope or heavy string

Pry Bar, such as a crowbar

Hammer, heavier the better

Locktite (optional but recommended)

Breaker Bar (optional but recommended)

Coil Spring Compressor  (optional but recommended) or long heavy duty pipe

Ramps (optional)

Impact wrench (optional)

Tie rod remover (optional, your call, see step 9)

NOTE:  The socket sizes listed were what was on my vehicle and I do not guarantee that they will fit yours, so check first before buying anything, especially the axle socket.

Ok, now that you’ve found all the tools needed, lets get started.  I drove the front wheels up on some ramps to raise the vehicle off the ground simply to save me from bending over so much, but it can be done just as well without them.

By the way this is also a great time to check the front brakes for remaining life, the tie rods for play and the transmission seal for leaks as you will have access to all of them in this procedure.  I had to replace a tie rod as it had too much play in it, I had been noticing a little extra play in the steering wheel while driving down the road and this helped take it out.  I wish I had done the transmission (Driver’s Side)  seal as it was starting to leak, but I didn’t think about it before hand.

Ok, back to the procedure:

Step by Step….

1.  Find a level work and and then set your parking brake and put the vehicle in park.

2.  Gently remove the plastic wheel cover bolts with the 3/4” deep socket.

3.  If using impact wrench skip to 5.  Using the breaker bar and 3/4” deep socket slightly loosen the wheel lug nuts, by that I mean roughly 1/8 turn to break the torque.  This will make it easier than trying to hold the wheel while trying to remove the nuts when its jacked up.

4.  Jack up the vehicle, using the floor jack, til the tires just come off the ground.

5.  Remove the wheel lug nuts and remove the wheel.

6.  Use the c-clamp to compress the calipers enough to clear the ridge on the rotors usually about 1/4” is sufficient.

7.  Remove the two 15mm bolts that hold the caliper assembly on.  I had to use a short extension and a breaker bar to get the started, as they were very tough.  Once you’ve removed the bolts and pulled the assembly off the rotor use the bungee or rope to hang the assembly from the coil spring so the brake line is not being stressed.  This will also keep it out of your way.  Then just pull the rotor off and set it aside.  It should just slide right off like the wheel.

8.  Now, grab your breaker bar or impact wrench and the 34 mm socket (check with the auto part store, to make sure the size of the nut on your vehicle) and remove the large axle nut.

9.  Remove the tie rod nut and remove it by tapping it with a hammer from the side you just removed the nut.  Please be careful not to damage the threads, usually there is a non threaded region at the bottom of the bolt to aid in this.  You may also use a tie rod remover which you can borrow from many of the automotive parts stores, but I think the hammer is faster and easier in this case.

10.  If you have the coil spring compressor, use it to slightly compress the spring.

11.  Now remove the strut bolt nuts and then beat them out with the hammer being careful to hit them squarely on the end as not to damage the threads.  A heavier hammer makes it easier.  The bolts have a knurled shank that keeps them from spinning and also retains the bolts in the hole.  You may need to use a socket extension or similar device to finish driving the bolt out.  Be carful when removing the last bolt as the assembly will shift slightly when the bolt is fully removed and you will probably need to play with the tension on the spring compressor to get the alignment correct to remove the bolt.  I didn’t have the spring compressor and used a pry bar instead.(CAUTION:  WHEN YOU REVOVE THE BOLTS THE ARM ASSEMBLY WILL MOVE SOME , MINE MOVED UP A COUPLE INCHES SO KEEP THOSE FINGERS CLEAR OF ANY PINCH POINTS)

12.  Now you’ll need to remove the cv assembly from the wheel end.  Tap on the shaft that you removed that big axle nut with a hammer to break it free.  You’ll need to pull the strut arm down from the top to allow you to push/pull the cv axle out of the outer assembly, while bending the cv assembly as needed as well.  Once you’ve gotten it clear of the outer assembly you can remove it from the transmission.

13.  The cv axle as a spring clip on it to keep it attached to the transmission.  You can take a look at the new one to see what it looks like.  You must pry the axle from the transmission to release the spring clip.  It will take a little force, but if you’re grunting too hard take a second look or put some bracing on the transmission to keep from damaging it.  I was able to use a standard 4’ construction crowbar to easily remove the assembly.

When you install the new one just push it in to the transmission housing until you feel it lock in to place.  ……Whew half way there!!!!

14.  Now repeat the previous steps in reverse order with a couple of modifications.  Add some locktite to the calipers bolts to make sure they stay.  If you were smart unlike me you have easy access to the transmission seal where the cv axle goes in and it would make an outstanding time to change it out.  Be careful to just tighten the plastic wheel lugs nuts only slightly to avoid breaking them.  Also since you compressed the brake calipers earlier make sure to press the brake pedal a few times once you’ve got everything back together.  Pump the pedal until the brake pedal gets firm again and you’re ready to go.

As with any repair take it easy at first to make sure you got everything put back together just so.  Hope this helped.  Check out the cv axles below and the sockets to see if any will help you on your way.  Good Luck!!!

How to Fix Stripped Threads by Installing a Heli Coil (Self Locking Insert)

I ran in to some stripped threads in the aluminum exhaust housing that need to be repaired.  I probably could have just drilled the hole to the next size and tapped it, but this would have forced me to enlarge the clearance hole and find a larger bolt.  I just didn't like that option in this case, so here is how I prepped and installed a 8mm Heli-Coil using a kit I bought online.

Here is an outline of the steps involved:

1.  Mask off any sensitive areas that should not have metal shavings.

2.  Drill out the stripped threads to the recommended size in the Heli-Coil kit.  Tip...Make sure you don't drill too deep.  If you're not on a drill press put a piece of masking tape on the drill bit to show your depth or use a drill stop collar to avoid drilling too deep.

3.  Place a small amount of cutting oil on the tap or use a tap stick to lube the tap and tap the hole.  I used a tap stick which appears to be made out of a wax and it works very nicely.  Note that I was working with soft aluminum so I didn't have to reverse the tap till I hit the desired depth. However in a harder material you want to reverse the tap about 3/4 turn to break the chips every so often, and then continue screwing the tap in.

4.  Clean out any leftover metal shavings from the tapping process using a cloth, magnet, vacuum or any other ingenious method you can come up with.

5.  Used the insertion tool to thread the Heli-Coil in to the hole until it is slightly recessed with the surrounding surface.  Note that the Heli-Coil should not protrude above the surface.

6.  Break off the tang using the supplied tool and revove it.  Now you're ready for a new bolt.

(Note:  Heli-Coils are made of stainless steel so they are great for the marine environment as well.)

Good Luck and hope this helps.....

Check out some of these Heli-Coil Kits

How to Perform an Engine Compresion Test on a PWC, ATV or MOTORCYCLE

A compression test is an easy way to determine the internal health of your engine, and you can do it yourself in about 10-15 minutes.  Here's how and what the results probably mean.....

Tools Needed:

Compression Gauge and spark plug wrench and a spark plug gap tool.

(Note:  I would recommend getting a full kit that has the extra adapters for a few more bucks for when you run in to the odd size. I made that mistake and then had to buy another full kit just for the right adapter.  I also recommend getting the type that screw in to the spark plug hole as opposed to the ones that you have to push and hold on the hole.)

You may want to consider new spark plugs since you're going through the effort of removing the old ones, especially if they've got some miles on them.  In either case you should check the gap on the plugs prior to installing the new ones.

Procedure:

!!!Prior to starting make sure you have a strong battery to turn the engine over properly and turn the fuel off!!!!

(Warm up the engine to allow the metal parts to expand and seal properly, and make sure to hold the throttle wide open (full throttle) during the compression test.)

1.  Remove all the spark plugs and ground the plug wires or disconnect the ignition coil.  Many of the manufacturers have some grounded posts to attach the plug wires to, if not use a set of alligator clips from the tip (metal) of the plug to a Good ground.  Try to keep the spark plugs away from the spark plug holes in the head.  Examine the plugs carefully for signs of a problems.

2.  Screw the compression gauge into the plug hole and grab a pen a paper to write down the values of each cylinder.

3.  You'll need to hold the throttle in the wide open position (full throttle) while doing the compression test.

(Tip:  On a waverunner or ATV you can ziptie or tape the throttle lever to the handlebar (at full throttle) if you are by yourself to make it easier.)

Now press in and HOLD the starter button until the needle on the compression gauge stops rising, usually 5-10 seconds and try to note how many compression strokes it took to climb to the max value.  You will notice that each compression stroke made the needle jump and increased the compression reading until it peaks out, and that's the compression value for that cylinder.  The faster the compression climbs to the peak the better seal you have, and you should mentally note if any of the cylinders tended to take more strokes than the others to obtain the peak compression.  Tip:  Worn rings and cylinder walls tend to increase the number of strokes to achieve your maximum compression reading (Compression for that cylinder).

4.  Now you'll need to repeat the last step for each cylinder and then take a look at the results.

(Tip:  You must release the pressure in the compression gauge after each reading by pressing the relief valve on the gauge to reset the needle to 0 psi.)

Results and Diagnosis:

Typically the compression between each cylinder should vary no more that 20% of the compression value.  For instance let's say the first cylinder measured 150psi then you would hope that the other cylinder pressures would not be more or less than 30psi from 150psi (120-180psi).  You should refer to your manual to determine the factory compression, to see how far off you are. Usually compression values below 85psi are very poor and will probably require engine work, most of the compression values will range from 115-230psi, depending on the engine and some will be higher.)

Remember you are more concerned with the balance between the cylinders as opposed to the actual compression value as long as you are over 85 psi.  Most older engines will see some discrepancy between the compression readings, but if they are too far off then it tends to cause your engine to run poorly and now matter how many accessories you change you'll still have the same problem, until you fix the source.

If one cylinder has low compression you can do a wet test to help determine the cause of the problem.  A wet test involves putting 1-2 tablespoons of oil (same oil type usually used, ie 2-stroke vs 4-stroke oil) into the cylinder and repeating the compression test.  You can add the oil with a small funnel, or if needed I've used a small hose pressed on the end of the funnel to help get the oil in the hole.  The extra oil in the cylinder will help seal up the rings, but do not tend to affect the valves or valve seats.  If the compression fixed itself or improved by more than 30 psi, the rings are probably the problem.  If it didn't affect the overall value then the problem is probably related to the reed valves(2-strokes) or valves (4-strokes).

If two adjacent cylinders have lower than normal compression and injecting oil into the cylinders does not increase the compression, the cause may be the head gasket leaking between the cylinders or cracked cylinders.  A leak down test may also be performed to help isolate the problem.

Quick Overview

Remove plugs and ground the plug wires, install compression gauge and turn engine over until compression stops rising, reset gauge, write down value and repeat for each cylinder, replace spark plugs and wires.

Check out the following compression testers to help you with your project.......

How to Take Apart a Playstation 3

Are you wondering how to take apart your Sony Playstation 3?  Do you want to know how to open the PS3?  Well, I was.  I did some research and found some good videos of a PS3 being opened and a Site that has a good how to guide with pictures for the disassembly of the Sony Playstation 3. 

http://www.llamma.com/PS3/repair/PS3_disassembly_tutorial.htm

Here is a really good video on how to open your Playstation 3. It is moving in fast motion but it is better than the other videos that are available for taking apart your ps3.

Check out the parts for repairing your Playstation 3 after you have disassembled it.